Tag Archives: holes

Dry lining walls

Dry lining walls is the method of fastening sheets of plasterboard to a wall using an adhesive compound and joining tape. This gives the wall a flat smooth finish that you will then be able to decorate over. As with all of the topics covered in our blogs, these things take time and patience to master and to create great results.
First off, remove any skirting boards that are present as they can be reused later. Now you must fit a timber batons at the top and bottom of the wall to create an area to work in, once you have done this attach timber batons from the edges at 16″inch or 400mm centres across the wall. These will be used to fit by nails or screws the tops, bottoms and middles of the boards to the wall. When lining up the boards the joints of the boards must sit center to the batons, as to create a strong joint. To fasten the batons to the wall they require plugs, screws or a strong adhesive, all of which can be purchased at DIY stores such as B&Q or Homebase. Batons will also need to be placed around any switches or fixtures upon the walls as to allow the plasterboard to be fastened to it.
Measure of the size and amount of plasterboard you will need as in the same manner as the two previous blogs, measure the area of the wall then the area of one board of plasterboard and divide the larger number by the smaller number. That’s how many boards you will need, however it is better to purchase a few more than required just in case. You may need to cut plasterboard for some areas, this is quite simple as it is made of a very thin and light piece of plaster and paper squashed together. Once you have measured the size of the cut you need to make on the board against the space on the wall, simply score a line using a rule and a sharp blade and then, once you are an 1/8 th inch or so into the plasterboard turn it onto its side and bend with your knee and two hands until the plasterboard completes the cut.
To fasten the boards to the wall we can use nails, small amounts of pre made plaster or a strong adhesive. If you are using nails hammer them in lightly until the heads are slightly below the surface of the boards. Once the boards are fastened to the wall it is essential to use skrim tape to fasten into all the joints and create a greater bond. Skrim tape is simply a gauze like tape with a sticky underside that molds into the joints as you tape along them. Make good contact with the skrim tape and use pressure to force the tape to mold into any gaps that may be present. You have now completed dry lining walls.

I hope that you were able to find some useful information in this latest blog and that you too now find it a little bit easier to dry line walls. Chris, your dry lining buddy.

 

Painting woodwork

Continuing from our previous blog, painting woodwork is the focus of this blog. In particular focussing on doors that have recently been stripped, however the general nature of this blog can relate to any sort of woodwork painting you have needs for. As usual within these blogs I have tips and techniques for you that you may wish to follow. Of course, creating that sleek, shiny, smooth finish on woodwork takes a great deal of attention and patience, but it is not a completely difficult job. Being attentive and patient will create a very good finished product. If the old paint is in a decent condition then a simple re-coat or two will suffice. However, as usual, a different approach is needed when dealing with paint that is in bad condition. Old, flaky or discoloured are synonyms that describe bad conditioned paint.

In relation to recently stripped doors; if the exterior paint is in decent condition, then there is no need to hard work the paint back to the bare timber. If there is flaky paint remove it with a scraper and then sand areas to create greater even surfaces. Always try and remove furniture decorations (handles, knobs, plates and knockers) so as not to cover them in paint.

Repainting: Fill any sort of holes with cellulose filler costing less than £8 from DIY stores, such as B&Q. Sandpaper the surface to create an area that the new paint can ‘adhere’ to. (Make sure your new paint is of the same colour as woodwork if you wish to repaint). In the same way as neutralisation in the last blog, rub the door with white spirit or warm water to clean particle to stop them from attaching to the paintbrush. If old paintwork is in good condition ignore this step, if not; an undercoat will help cover this up((If the woodwork has been stripped to timber then an undercoat is important)). Sand down any sort of ‘primer’ coating to continue with ‘upper’ layers, for which the sandpapering will create a new are for the paint to attach to again. Once enough coats have been applied and dried and your door is refurbished to the eye and the feel, you are done!

 

Happy Painting!